August Produce Swappers Gardening Tips

IN THE GARDEN:

We are finally moving towards the early stages of spring, although it feels slower this year as the constant rain has meant that soil temps are taking longer to rise so growth is a bit slower than usual.  It will be several weeks before we really hit our true spring weather and longer again before the soil warms up and frosts ease enough for us to plant our summer-loving crops such as tomatoes, corn, beans, chillies and eggplants. Oh and basil!  Ah basil…
 
If you are planning to grow your own tomatoes, tomatillos and chillies from seed then now is a good time to get onto sowing them – preferably with a heat mat, or at least in a warm spot indoors.  Once they have germinated they will need protection and warmth until early to mid-November so make sure you have a plan for keeping them safe if you are getting onto growing them now.  A simple cold frame can work well, or even a sunny window sill (although plants can get both sunburnt and, conversely, very cold overnight next to a single-glazed window pane so keep plants at a little distance if you can).   I find that eggplants don’t do as well for me in the cold-cold and so I tend to put them in a bit later.  Most other summer-cropping annuals can be sown later so don’t worry about them yet.  For some cold-frame/greenhouse DIY inspiration check out this article by Kirsten Bradley from Milkwood Permaculture.
 
With the lengthening days and gradually warming temperature the sap is starting to flow in deciduous trees and shrubs and now is the perfect time to spread composted manure or pelleted organic fertiliser (or a combination of both) around the drip line of fruit trees to bolster their growth as they blossom and then develop their fruit for the season.   It’s a good idea to put down dolomite lime around the drip line of fruit trees now also to provide essential calcium and magnesium for good fruit set and tree health.  This can be applied at the rate of one generous handful per metre and is especially appreciated by pome fruit such as apples and pears.  Dolomite lime has less of an effect on the pH of soil than garden lime so if you are using the latter you will need to do a pH test before application to ensure that you will not be making the soil too alkaline.  Calcium is also important for blueberries and has been found to improve fruit retention and cropping, however, because they are true acid lovers and therefore don’t react well to the application of lime around their root zone calcium should be applied only through the addition of gypsum (calcium sulphate).  Mulch after applying fertiliser.
  
As mentioned last month bud swell is the most important time to spray nectarine and peach trees with copper spray (Cupric hydroxide is an allowable spray for organic systems) for leaf curl – it may be too late for some early-blossoming varieties so if the blossoms are unfurling then leave any copper sprays until leaf fall in Autumn, but for many varieties the timing now will be ideal.  Avoid wet weather (tricky lately!) as the spray will not be effective.
 
Sow now in the garden:  You can still sow late patches of broad beans. Peas, rocket and spring onions can also go in now.  It’s too late for a proper crop of garlic, although if you have old, sprouting cloves you can pop them in around fruit trees as a companion plant, or grow them in the veggie patch to harvest later as young garlic – like a garlicky spring onion.  Don’t worry about giving them precious garden space, just bung them in gaps or corners.

Although carrots can technically go in now (only requiring temps of around 6 degrees to germinate) they will take a long time to get going.  I prefer to prepare the beds now – a bed where you have previously grown heavy-feeding crops or greens is ideal. Add lime and blood and bone and lightly work the soil, then over the next few weeks weed out any annual weeds that come up due to the soil disturbance.  Then sow your carrot seed in mid Sept. 
 
Plant now (Transplant seedlings): Rocket, lettuce (in a sheltered spot or under a cloche), onions, spring onions, English spinach, spring/summer kale (will need to be protected later from cabbage moths).  Plant rhubarb and asparagus crowns, globe artichoke divisions, divisions of perennial herbs such as chives, garlic chives, oregano, golden marjoram, etc.  Edible flowers such as pansies and violas, calendula and borage can go in now.

Happy gardening!