July Produce Swappers Gardening Tips

IN THE GARDEN:

Deep winter is here and although the garden is mostly dormant now it can be a busy time for gardeners:  Deciduous fruit trees, berries and shrubs should be planted (or moved) and pruned now.  Berries, especially, will be already starting to send out new feeder roots beneath the surface and you will see their buds plumping up even though it feels like spring is so far away. If you have been meaning to ask that friend or neighbour for a few berry canes from their patch then now is the time! If you can dig them out and transplant them soon, and even better, top dress them with a generous amount of well-composted cow manure then they will be off to a good start to establish this growing season (you will get berries the following year – it goes quicker than you think!)
 
Winter fruit tree pruning should be happening in July and August (excluding stone fruit trees).  If you have mature fruit trees then it’s best to go lightly, start by taking out the three ‘D’s’ – dead, diseased or damaged wood.  Remember that winter pruning promotes growth, whereas summer pruning slows or constrains growth – so if you are wanting to contain your fruit trees to a good height for picking and netting then don’t cut too enthusiastically at this time of the year, save most of your pruning til summer.  Young, establishing fruit trees need a good prune in winter to establish their framework and encourage vigorous growth, so now is the perfect time to do that. For more info on different fruiting varieties and how and when to prune them here is a great article by Duncan from Leaf, Root, Fruit in Kyneton.
 
If we get a dry patch, then it’s time to do a second dormant-season spray of copper (cupric hydroxide) on nectarines and peaches to prevent curly leaf.  The third and most important application happens at bud swell, just before the blossoms come out in early spring. 
 
If you haven’t already, then clean up asparagus beds and cut old foliage and stems to the ground.  Weed garlic beds, trying not to disturb the roots of your garlic plants. Garlic and asparagus beds can be top-dressed with compost now.
 
Sheet mulch around apple trees to prevent codling moth larvae that is overwintering in the soil around the tree from emerging later, ditto pear and cherry trees for pear and cherry slug pupae. Spray the trunks of apples with eco oil to get any codling moth cocoons that are overwintering in the bark of the lower trunk.  Another strategy for controlling both codling moth and pear and cherry slugs is to let chickens free range through your orchard while your trees are dormant – they will scratch up these pests and eat them.
 
This month’s planting guide comes with the caveat that I usually try to hold off planting for a bit longer, but if you can’t wait then these varieties will do ok (but slowly):
 
Sow now: Broadbeans, rocket, spring onions, spinach, borage, calendula
 
Plant now (Transplant): Beetroot as a salad green (they may bolt once spring comes along so be warned), spinach, lettuce (only with shelter), spring onions.  mizuna, mibuna and pak choi can still be planted as fillers.  Plant rhubarb and asparagus crowns, strawberry runners, berry canes.  Divide and replant globe artichokes.
 
*If you have a heat mat indoors and want to aim for advanced tomato plants to put in the garden once the weather warms up later then you can start sowing tomatoes any time from now.  Other summer veg is best left a little bit longer (and don’t worry if you are not ready to start tomatoes yet – you can sow much later and still have them ready for planting into the garden in November, sowing now is just to give an extra head start – and for those ninja gardeners who are super organised)
 
Happy gardening!